Trees & Shrubs

If you have ordinary good soil that has not been compacted, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter of the root ball and 1 1/2 times as deep.

Place plant in hole by backfilling the hole until the plant is at a level where grown in the nursery.  If the soil is heavy clay, raise the planting level to account for slower drainage and mound up the soil around the plant.  (See diagram)

Before backfilling hole, roll back burlap and/or wire basket on balled and burlapped plants after the plant is in the hole.  EXCEPTION:   Poly-beige or plastic burlap must be removed entirely without breaking the soil ball. 

Remove so-called “plantable” containers carefully without breaking the root ball.  Container-grown plants must have their outer root system broken and spread out or they will never become established.  Simply cutting the roots with a knife in 3 or 4 places is not good enough.  Exposing about 1″ of root system by vigorous shaking will work.

Soil additives:  It has been proven by experiment that large additions of peat moss, bagged topsoil, and the like, hinder root spread.  Always backfill the material taken out the hole, mixing in no more than 10% Canadian peat in the backfill is satisfactory.  EXCEPTION: Rhododendrons, azaleas, and their relatives as well as dogwoods and magnolias, must have more peat and are extremely fussy about drainage. 

Foundation plantings are best if the soil is raised above the yard.   First, work up the soil and add good topsoil to form the landscape bed.  It will look good and the plants will love it.

After all other preparations, gradually backfill the hole while tamping soil around roots with your foot.  Do not break soil ball.  On trees or very large shrubs, fill hole 3/4 full and then water thoroughly.  After water goes down, fill hole to the top and mulch with about 2″ of bark mulch.  Smaller shrubs may be watered thoroughly after they are mulched with about 2″ of bark.  Be sure to keep the bark away from the plant’s base, especially on evergreen azaleas.